How-to

Heat treating Carbon Fiber HTPLA for accurate, heat resistant parts

Posted by Alex Dick on

Carbon Fiber HTPLA can make very accurate parts particularly when heat treating, demonstrating less distortion of form and dimension change after heat treating compared to other HTPLAs. This characteristic is particularly useful when seeking to create application-specific parts where exceptional accuracy, high stiffness, or use up to 160 C is required. Above is an example of how well heat treated Carbon Fiber HTPLA (left) holds form compared to our opaque black HTPLA (right). Holes are round and surfaces are flat, straight, and true with Carbon Fiber. Standard HTPLA (right) shows significantly more distortion. Knowing heat treated CF parts can hold form opens up applications...

Read more →


Avoid jams to print reliably with HTPLA on the Prusa MK3 & e3d hotends

Posted by Alex Dick on

The Prusa MK3 and Proto-pasta HTPLA are an innovative combination, but getting a good result when 3D printing isn't always straight-forward. In this article, we'll share some practices and settings we found to improve reliability when printing with Proto-pasta HTPLA, including our sparkly glitters and metallics, on your Prusa MK3! To avoid jams, we'll focus on removing nozzle restrictions and defining an operating window for a window of opportunity. If you've experienced jams, you'll want to keep reading... First, did you know HTPLA becomes more heat resistant when heat treated? Unfortunately, our MK3 hotend heat break seems to create heat treating conditions at default PLA temperatures. When idle for a few...

Read more →


Avoid clogs with PLA Composites and all-metal hotends

Posted by Alex Dick on

Does your printer stop extruding on the first layer?  Or does it clog later in a print?  Is your print quality inconsistent with missing cross-sections?   Or does your printer fail on small, intricate cross-sections especially when printing slow? If your extruder gear ever grinds or slips on your filament, you’ll want to read below! Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and non-optimal material flow.  This effect is worsened by poorly cooled all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears, small nozzles/layers, slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction. To get more reliable results with PLA composites and all-metal hotends in particular,...

Read more →


Improved Rusting Method for Iron Prints

Posted by ProtoPlant Makers of Proto-pasta on

Dustin shares an improved (and faster) method for rusting prints made with Magnetic Iron PLA!

Read more →


Polishing Iron PLA Prints...?

Posted by Proto Plant on

As I was polishing prints made with our Stainless Steel PLA for the last blog post on wheel polishing, I began to wonder if the same could be done with our Magnetic Iron PLA. After all, it also has powderized metal in it, why hadn't we tried to polish it already?I put this version of the famous Thingiverse owl to the test by attempting to polish it on the bench grinder with a polishing compound. The result was... a slightly shinier owl, but certainly not as impressively shiny as SSPLA after polishing. So can you polish iron prints? Kind of....

Read more →


x